【樂活書蟲】水城台北

五, 2011/01/21 - 07:38 — 陳晉茂

台北真的是個變化快速的地方,快到不同世代間難有共同記憶。

眼睛所見之物最容易保留並喚起記憶,而每個人都能接觸到的就是街道、建築。今日的台北,能發思古幽情的地方少之又少,即便還存在,也多半面臨即將消失的命運。

對我這種年紀接近不惑、又生長於台北市的人而言,台北一直是個建築林立的都市。雖然我曾經歷心中的秘密後花園成了信義計畫區,還是難以想像台北更早的面貌。

 還好,接近耳順之年的舒國治描寫出我不曾想像過的台北──一個處處是水的水城。

舒國治筆下,台北過去是個盛了水的盆子。我熟悉今日淡水、基隆、新店、景美諸河穿梭其間的台北,卻對那個水渠密佈、水田處處,家門前就是水溝,行走沒多久就得過橋的台北感到陌生。

這消失的水溝中,最有名的莫過於瑠公圳。

我在台大校園見識過瑠公圳水源地整理過後的美麗,也在溫州街口瞧見一小段攤在陽光下的瑠公圳支流,卻不曾仔細想像有兩百七十年歷史的瑠公圳散佈臺北的景象。尤其是現在新生南路這段瑠公圳最大幹道,從書中老照片觀之,它不是條小水溝,竟是兩岸種著成排大樹的美麗河景。無怪乎舒國治要說「是我台北孩子不自禁生負某種自卑感之下卻猶能以之緬懷而深感尊嚴的一處地標。」它的消失是否讓許多人如舒國治般惋惜與不解?

書中也解答了我長久以來的疑問:新生南路為什麼不是接新生北路、卻連接松江路?說穿了,過去並沒有松江路,新生南北路則是沿瑠公圳而建。許多街道彎彎曲曲,我過去以為是官商勾結下的畸形產物,原來不少曲折也都源自於這些「河流」。

除了對老台北的描述,整本書最吸引我的是舒國治提出的台北巷路閒盪之旅。不是遊走在氣勢宏偉的大道、更非觀光客常遊景點,是真正可以悠閒散步、欣賞巷弄間老房、老樹,還顧慮到休息、美食的慢活行程。讀了之後讓我好想馬上如法炮製,不過,這本書雖出版不久,一些文章卻是寫在十多年前,景物會不會已經消失?

我有些擔心。

  

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你好,我們是一群台大城鄉所的學生, 正致力於釐清瑠公圳的規

你好,我們是一群台大城鄉所的學生,
正致力於釐清瑠公圳的規劃設計議題、保存其文化地景。
如果對瑠公圳有興趣,歡迎加入我們的粉絲專頁,追蹤相關議題。
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